Veikka Gustafsson

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Veikka Gustafsson
Veikka Gustafsson at SuomiAreena in Pori, 2014
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson

(1968-01-14)14 January 1968
Known forSummited all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen

Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, known as Veikka Gustafsson (born 14 January 1968) is a Finnish climber who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without using supplemental oxygen. He is also known for presenting a TV travel show on Finnish television.

Climbing career[edit]

In 1993, Gustafsson became the first Finnish person to have reached the top of Mount Everest. In the spring of 1997, he also became the first Finn to have climbed to the summit without using bottled oxygen. Gustafsson is the 17th person in the world to have summited all 14 of the highest peaks above 8,000 metres,[1] and the 9th to have done so without using supplemental oxygen.[2] Research published in 2022 estimated that Gustafsson is one of only three climbers to have stood on the "true" geographical summit of all the eight-thousanders, and he was the second to do so after American climber, Ed Viesturs.[3]

Eight-thousander ascents[edit]

Other notable ascents/attempts[edit]

In the Alps:

  • Frendo ridge
  • Bonatti pillar
  • Les Courtes, north wall (Swiss route)

In the Pamir:

In the Himalayas:

  • Mount Everest (8848 m), spring 1996. Reached 7500 m.
  • Broad Peak (8 047 m), 1997. Reached ridge between Main summit and Rocky summit.[10]
  • Annapurna (8091 m), spring 2000. Failed to summit.
  • Annapurna (8091 m), spring 2002. Reached 7300 m.
  • Kangchenjunga (8 586 m), spring 2003. Reached 7100 m.


  • Mount Vinson (4892 m), winter 1996. The tallest mountain in Antarctica.
  • Four first ascents on the Antarctica, winter 1997. Summited Mount Gardner (4587 m) and an unnamed peak, later unofficially named Mount Sisu (4300 m).

Personal life[edit]

Veikka Gustafsson leases the Porkkala Lighthouse and arranges trips there.[11]

See also[edit]


In 2008 mid-July Veikka Gustafsson and Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio attempted Gasherbrum I (8068m), but the two were forced to abort the summit bid just before 100m due to bad weather (snowstorm, total whiteout).[12] On 26 July 2009 he prevailed in a second attempt, along with Japanese climber Kazuya Hiraide and Bulgarian climbers Nilolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov, Boyan Petrov and Nikolay Valkov.[13]


  1. ^ "GI summits - Veikka Gustafsson completes the 14x8000ers list!". Retrieved 26 July 2022.
  2. ^ "Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: the 14x8000ers". Retrieved 26 July 2022.
  3. ^ Franz, Derek (20 July 2022). "Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks". Alpinist. Retrieved 3 August 2022.
  4. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 93–96. ISBN 9510205753.
  5. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 135–137. ISBN 9510205753.
  6. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 160–163. ISBN 9510205753.
  7. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 203–211. ISBN 9510205753.
  8. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 213–216. ISBN 9510205753.
  9. ^ Leino, Eino; Gustafsson, Veikka (1995). Kohti huippua. Porvoo: WSOY. pp. 107–116. ISBN 9510205753.
  10. ^ "Veikka Gustafsson on kiivennyt vuorelle, josta Lotta Hintsa pelastettiin – nostaa hattua yritykselle ja varoittaa talvikiipeilyn haasteista". 9 February 2020. Retrieved 10 February 2020.
  11. ^ "Satavuotias majakka seisoi Suomenlahden tyrskyissä autiona 2000-luvun alussa, sitten tunnettu vuorikiipeilijä eksyi luodolle – nyt siellä on vieraillut astronauttikin" (in Finnish). Yle. 15 December 2020. Retrieved 27 July 2022.
  12. ^ Pakistan extra update: Broad Peak SUMMITS, Veikka tops out no 13; BP, G1, G2 and G4 in full summit pushes, retrieved 30 November 2008
  13. ^ GI and GII 2009: Bulgarian GI and GII Expedition Summits (Veikka summited too), retrieved 27 July 2009